Welting



H. LYON WELTING Aug. 6, 1929.A

Filed Dec, 26. 1925 Patente'd Aug. 6, 1929.

UNITED STATES HARRY LYON, OF HOLBROOK, MASSACHUSETTS, AASSIGNOI'R T PERLEY E. BARBOUB,

OF QUINCY, MASSACHUSETTS.

WELTING.

Application led December 2:6,.1925. Serial No. 77,871.

After a welt shoe has been worn somewhat the outer edge of the sole often bends up, thus raising the outer edge of the welt, and when 'a welt of the usual flat strip construction 1s 5 used, the outer edge of this welt thus becomes higher than its inner edge and any water which may reach its upper face is then directed toward Vthe inseam stitches where it may find its way into the shoe. Trouble is often experienced, also, when weltlng of this typeis used because of the tendency of the welt and upper to separate sufficiently to expose the inseam stitches, thus producing a grinning seam. t

The present invention provides aweltconstruction in which the inner ed ge 1s thicker than the outer edge by which the tendency to produce a grinning seam is less liable to occur and which will not present its upper face inclined downwardly toward the inseam stitches, even should the margin of the outer sole become bent upwardly. In order, however, to provide a uniform surface appearance to the upper face of the welt, the blank strip from which it is made is cut 1n the usual manner of uniform thickness and the thickening referred to is effected on the under face, which, when leather is used, is the flesh side. The thickening may be effected, if desired, by the use of a filler strip incorporated in the edge portion of the blank and this filler strip may economically comprise material removed to form the usual stitch-receiving groove in its lower face or that removed to form the usual beveled inner edge.

When welting so made is incorporated in a shoe and the shoe is completed, the upper face of the welt slopes downwardly and outwardly along substantially straight lines so that if the margin of the sole bends upwardly in use the outer edge of t-he welt does not rise above its inner edge. Even though the margin of the outer sole does not bend upwardly the novel welt engages the upper for a greater distance above the inseam than in the case of the susual welt of uniform thickness so that there is much less liability. of a grinning seam.

vFor a more complete understanding of this invention reference may be had to the accompanying drawings in which Figure l represents a` cross section of the blank from which the welting is made.

Figures 2 and 3 are similar views showing successive operations in forming the completed welting.

Figure 4 is a view similar to Figure 3, showing a slight modification.

Figure 5 is a detail section through the marginal portion of the shoe show ing the form of welting of Figure 3.

Figure 6 is a view similar to Figure 1, 'but showing the manner of beveling the blank.

Figure 7 is view similar to Figures 3 and 4, but showing the piece cut off in the beveling operation used as a filler strip.

Figure 8 is a view similar to Figure 5, but showing the welting of Figure 7.

F lgure 9 is a View similar to Figure 5, but showing the shoe after a period of use.

Figure 10 is a detail section of a shoe showlng one cause of a grinning seam7 when a welt of rectangular cross section is used.

The blank strip from which the welting is made is of substantially rectangular cross section as shown at l in Figure 1. The inner upper edge of this strip is then cut off on a bevel as shown at 2 in 4Figure 2, and from beneath an incision 3 is made adjacent to the inner edge 4 of the strip, this incision extending as shown substantially perpendicular to the lower face 5, which, when leather is used is the flesh side, and then this incision extends substantially parallel to the face 5 as shown at 6. This incision forms a flap 7 integral with the blank, and a portion of this flap, as shown at 8, may be partly severed from the vremainder by a cut 9 and folded back over the remainder of the flap to form a filler between the free edge of the flap and the body of the blank above the incision 6, the parts being fixed in any suitable manner, as by the use of cement, this being illustrated in Figure 3. It will thus be seen that the welt is formed with a thickened longitudinally extending protruding portion adjacent to and wholly within its inner edge, this thickened portion being formed entirely on the lower or flesh side of the welting, the upper or grain face remaining in its original condition and providing the finished surface which appears in the completed shoe. The turning back of the portion 8 of the flap also leaves a groove 10 between the inner edge of the thickened portion and the beveled edge 2, this groove serving as the stitch-receiving groove to receive the inseam stitches.

In a shoe constructed with a welt of rectanface 5 of the blank upwardly.

llar cross section as heretofore employed, t e inner edge of the welt is turned downwardly and is trimmed off somewhat below the inseam stitches, this presenting a downturned shoulder portion behind which the inseam stitches lie as shown at 14 in Figure y10. It will be noted, however, that this leaves a space 11 immediately outwardly of the inseam stitches between the under face of the welt and the upper face of the outsole. When these parts are drawn together, this space becomes more or less filled by drawing down the welt which thus pulls the inner upper face portion of the welt away from the upper, more or less exposing the inseam stitches and producing a grinning seam. In the present construction the thickened protruding portion is immediately outward of the 1nseam stitches so that when the welt is beaten down after inseaming to form an out-turned ange it occupies the same posit-ion as the space 11 i. e. fills it, and prevents the welt from being drawn away from the upper.

In place of turning the portion 8 inwardly, as shown in Figure 3, it may be turned outwardly as shown in Figure 4. When this is done, however, the cut 9 is extended from the slit 6 downwardly instead of from the lower This manner of folding the flap is illustrated in Figure 4.

In place of utilizing a portion of the ap to thicken the Welting, the portion removed in the beveling operation may be so employed, this being illustrated in Figures 6 and 7. In Figure 6, 12 indicates that portion which is removed from the beveling operation and in Figure 7 the portion 12 is shown as inserted beneath the flap 8 and cemented or otherwise fixed in position.

In Figures 5 and 9 a welt built up as shown in Figure 3 is shown as incorporated in the shoe. As shown in these figures, the welt when fixed in position is somewhat distorted so that the thickened portion acts to raise the inner edge of the upper face of the welt, the lower face of the welt engaging closely the upper face of the outer sole 15. The inseam at 16 passes through the welt between the groove` 10 and the bevel face 2 through the upper and lining in the usual manner and the between substance of the innersole, the innersole being shown at 17 The thickened portion of the welt immediately outwardly of the stitch-receiving groove acts to prevent the materialv of the welt at the outer face of the upper as shown at 18 from being pulled away therefrom so that the likelihood of a grinning seam is much reduced. The

outer edge portion of the welt is Xed firmly to the outer sole 15 by the outer sole stitches 20, these two lines of stitching acting to pull the welt into such shape that the upper face thereof is inclined downwardly and outwardly along substantially straight lines as shown at 21 so that any water reaching the upper face of the welt is caused to run oi.

toward its outer edge.

In Figure 9 the outer edge portion of the outer sole is shown as bent upwardly in the position which it may assume after the shoe has been worn, but even though this outer edge is upwardl turned as shown, this upward turning is insufficient to incline the upper face of the welt downwardly toward the inseam stitches so that there is no tendency for the water reaching the upper face of the welt to drain toward the inseam and thus find its way into the shoe. p

In Figure 8 the form of welt shown in Figure 7 is shown as incorporated in the shoe. As in the case of the form of Figure 5, the welt is distorted so that its lower face is in substantially flat condition and its upper face assumes an outwardly and downwardly inclined position, the portion adjacent to the inner edge of the welt hugging firmly against the upper above the line of the inseam stitches.

Where the form of welt shown in Figure 4 is used the results are substantially the same, in all cases the upper face of the welt assuming substantially aiiat downwardly inclined position relative to the shoe with its inner thickened edge tightly engaging the upper above the inseam stitches.

Having thus described certain embodiments of this invention, it should be evident to those skilled in the art that various changes and modifications might be made therein without departing from its spirit or scope as delined by the appended claims.

I claim:

1. Welting having a longitudinally extending portion protruding from the plane of its lower face adjacent to and wholly within its inner edge.

2. Leather welting having a portion adjacent to and wholly within its inner edge on its esh face that increases its normal thicknessi' 3. Welting comprising a blank of substantially rectangular cross section incised from its lower face adjacent to its inner edge to form a iap, and a filler strip inserted in said incision and forming with the flap a thickened portion of the welt.

4. Welting comprising a blank of substantially rectangulr cross section incised from its lower face adjacent to its inner edge to form a flap, one portion of said flap being folded against another portion to ferm a thickened portion for the welt and to present adjacent thereto a stitch-receiving groove. A

5. Welting presenting a stitch-receiving groove adjacent to its inner edge and a thickened rib-like portion outwardly thereof and protruding from the plane of the grooved face of the welt.

6. Welting havin an inseam stitch-receiving groove, and a lngitudinally extending portion protruding from the plane of the lower face of the welt along the outer edge of said groove.

7. Welting having a slit in its lower face to produce a stitch-receivinggroove the partially severed material being displaced downwardly to thicken the welt outwardly of said groove.

8. Goodyear Welting having a stitch-receivh ing groove and a longitudinal rib built up on its lower face outward of the groove adapted to enter the gap made by the groove when the welt is bent to form an out-turned iange and prevent a sinking of the welt after outseaming.

9. A welt shoe having a welt-grooved on its under face to receive the line of inseam stitches and having Welt thickening material located at the outer side only of said groove,

an outsole contacting the welt and by engagement with said thickening material acting to distort the welt and raise the inner edge of its exposed face higher above the inseam than if said thickening material were not present, and means for securing the outsole to maintain the distorted welt in engagement with the upper above the inseam.

10. Leather welting comprising a strip aving a plane grain side and a portion at its flesh side extending longitudinally thereof, comprised of the material of the welt strip and located adjacent to the inner edge of said flesh side, that thickens the inner edge of the welting as compared to the thickness of its outer edge.

In testimony whereof I have aliixed 'my signature.

HARRY LYON. 

